Young Skin
Babies, Children and Teens
The management of young skin provides a unique set of challenges. From baby eczema to persistent teenage acne, each case is unique and its management should be tailored to the individual. Learning how to treat our skin with care from a young age provides the building blocks for a healthy relationship with our skin as adults.
Baby & Kids Skin
I share my expertise and management tips for children’s eczema with the UK’s most popular parenting website Mumsnet. As a leading dermatologist and a mother of a child with eczema, I know all too well the challenges of managing the skin condition, with extensive professional expertise in this area. Skin problems in babies and children need approaching with extra care, these are some of the most common challenges we face.
Sunscreen for kids
It is a fact that exposure to UV light causes skin cancer and damage that occurs to vulnerable childhood skin has a huge impact on skin health and skin cancer risk in adult life. Baby’s and very young children should not be exposed to sun and should always be kept cool in the shade. As parents we are all aware of the need to limit UV exposure to protect the skin of our children and all patients coming to see me in clinic are advised to:
- Apply SPF 50+ sunscreen- the higher SPF the better, as studies have shown that on average people will apply less than half the amount of sunscreen required to provide the level of protection on the packaging.
- Don’t forget to apply to commonly missed sites- back, neck and ears.
- Reapply regularly throughout the day and do not trust claims of ‘once a day application’ products
- Limit your exposure to UV by avoiding 11am-3pm peak hours of the day.
- Be aware that even under shade you will be exposed to 40% of ambient UV.
Finding the ideal products to help us achieve this in kids requires a number of additional features:
- Limiting exposure to unnecessary chemicals- use a reflective ‘mineral’ sunscreen.
- Tolerability- look for formulations that do not sting eyes, and are unscented
- Ease of application- mechanism of delivery- sprays generally easier to apply quickly, also consider colour changing or tinted products that allow you to see where you have applied
- High water resistance- always reapply after swimming, but look for high water resistance to optimise protection during swimming.
Understand sunscreen labels:
Sunscreens with a high sun protection factor (SPF) help to block UVB and prevent burning of the skin and UV damage. UVA protection is also important, as UVA penetrates deeper into the skin and has been shown to also cause damage- look for a UVA shield or 5* protection. Modern sunscreens are sleek multi-tasking products and a world away from their sticky unpleasant precursors. There are two modes of action of sunscreens:
- Firstly, chemical or ‘absorber’ sunscreens- chemicals contained within the cream ‘absorb’ harmful UV radiation like a sponge.
- Secondly reflective sunscreens- these contain titanium dioxide or zinc oxide which work by reflecting back the UV from the surface of the skin like a mirror. Newer reflective sunscreens have used nano-particle technology to make the reflective agents smaller and easier to apply to the skin and less likely to leave white streaks.
In recent years there has been an increasing awareness of the potential health and environmental consequences of potential exposure to chemicals found within sunscreens. Dermatologists and sunscreen manufacturers have called for caution and the need for further evidenced based research to further clarify these questions, but increasingly companies are producing sunscreens that do not contain agents such as oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene. This is great news for people wishing to limit the exposure of their skin or their children’s skin to chemicals.
In addition to sunscreen, 50+ UV protective fabric (UPF) offers great additional protection. As the mother of two active young kids I love UV protective clothing for its ease of use. My routine for our children is to apply a layer of SPF 50+ sunscreen then dress them in high necked, long-sleeved UV suits with protective sunhats with a large brim to shade their delicate faces and chests. We also tend to hit the beach at 5pm.
My skin is getting me down. I can't cover my spots with makeup, and everything I try seems to make it worse
I see so many younger patients in clinic who are just exasperated with their skin. When nothing seems to work, and even covering your spots with makeup seems to mark them worse it is so hard to know where to start. For those of you who wear make up daily, finding a rhythm can be hard, particularly with the added difficulty of acne or eczema. We can assess your skin together and make a plan to manage it long term. Identifying and eliminating triggering products and helping you to achieve radiant healthy skin.
Teen skin
Adolescence is a particularly challenging time for your skin. I am frequently called on for my advice on how best to manage inflammatory skin problems. Recommended by Tatler as the ‘go to’ dermatologist for adolescent skin concerns. Offering practical help and advice to help you understand your skin better including how to optimise your skin care routine, advice about key ingredients to help balance your skin, and prescription treatments to soothe and calm skin conditions to allow ‘skin confidence’.
Teenage acne
Acne affects up to 95% of people at some point in their lives and is most prevalent in adolescents and young adults between the ages 11-30 years.If you have just started to develop acne look carefully at your skin care regimen. Ensure all products you use are oil free and non-comedogenic (ie don’t block pores). Try to minimise the products you are using and be careful not to ‘overload’ your skin. Keep products gentle and avoid products that irritate the already sore and inflamed skin. For example, a simple change to your cleanser can dramatically reduce your need to apply moisturiser.
There’s a great selection of products on the market that help treat mild acne. These products contain salicylic acid, glycolic acid, tea tree oil and benzoyl peroxide. They all have slightly different modes of action from increasing turnover of the top dead layers of the skin to unclog pores, to blitzing bacteria. Everyone’s skin will respond in a slightly different way to each of these approaches and getting the right product for you can make a big difference. However, if you are not seeing any improvement don’t ignore the problem. It is important to seek medical help from your GP or dermatologist and do this before scarring occurs.
Skincare basics
Morning
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Cleanse
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Light moisturiser where skin feels dry only
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Sunscreen suitable for acne prone skin
Evening
- Cleanse
- Active products - to spots and spot prone areas of the face eg benzoyl peroxide, AHA/BHA
- Light moisturiser where skin feels dry
Body confidence
I see first-hand in clinic on a daily basis how changes to your skin can have a huge psychological impact, affecting confidence both in school, at work and socially, and even leading to depression and anxiety. You cannot underestimate the impact this has on so many levels. Part of my role as a dermatologist is to help you through the management of your acne, it is not always straightforward, and can take time and a number of treatment approaches. But it is so rewarding and it is always wonderful to see what a difference it can make to your confidence and wellbeing.
Eczema in babies & children
As a mum of two children with eczema, I know first hand how challenging it can be to treat. As the seasons change the challenges we face change with them. Managing eczema is often a long term commitment, but I can help you with strategies to apply to any challenges you and your child might face with this condition.
What I recommend
Cold weather
In the wintery months as we wrap up in warm jumpers your skins well-being is often not top of your priority list. However, temperature changes and reduced humidity with central heating create specific challenges.
Lip licking
Colder weather can cause irritation and chapping on lips and face. This can cause discomfort and lead to a lip-licking habit. Use regular moisturisers and try colourless barrier creams such as cicaplast baume to protect the lips and surrounding skin.
Scratching
Eczema is incredibly itchy so it is a normal reaction for your child to scratch- a lot! The problem is that the scratching will further damage the skin, and can also form a habit in your child. Dry skin is itchy and in winter months our increased reliance on central heating at home and at school creates areas with low humidity that will exacerbate skin dryness. Keep skin soothed with regular moisturizer- you can never apply too much. Treat eczema flares as guided by your GP or dermatologists with treatment creams such as steroids, these reduce inflammation in the skin and help itch. Some children benefit from use of antihistamine –again this can be guided by your healthcare professional. Keep itchy skin covered with long sleeves and trousers in breathable fabrics such as cotton or linen. Also as your child gets older try your child with soothing cool sprays or moisturising sticks to try to give them something to apply instead of itching to try to break the habit. Remember to always keep nails as short as possible.
Moisturising
For dry eczema-prone skin apply a moisturiser at least twice a day. You will soothe and improve skin barrier. There are a variety of different products out there. Focus on consistency of the product: for very dry skin during winter use a thicker cream or ointment, a word of note when using these products always apply them in the direction of hair growth as rubbing them the other way will plug hair follicles and lead to spots. For normal skin types a light cream, lotion or gel is usually sufficient. Try to find products that your child can apply themselves, so they are able to use it in school if their skin is feeling dry or itchy.
School Uniform
Avoid contact with wool and synthetic fibers next to the skin as these can aggravate eczema. Use soft cotton vests and underwear under school uniforms and cotton tights/socks, these natural fibers will allow the skin to breathe.
Washing
All soap based products strip the skin of natural oils and can be extremely drying. Try swapping your child’s soap or shower gel for a soap free cleanser. You will notice the difference and may find you do not need to use as many moisturisers.